Malkus Sunlu S2 filament dryer mounting X1C by Malkus

Malkus

3D Printer>3D Printer Accessories

Print Profile(2)

All

X1 Carbon

P1S

P1P

X1E

0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill

Designer

11.6 h

1 plate

4.8(64)

"Brushed Finish" 0.6mm nozzle, 0.18mm layer, 3 walls, 10% infill

11.9 h

2 plates

5.0(4)

Boost

572

952

162

1.1 k

672

Released

Description

This is a mounting bracket for the Sunlu S2 filament dryer. It is compatible with use of a poop bucket on the back side. Its stable with its support legs and has good clearance for the power cable. The dryer can be secured to the bracket by replacing two externally mounted screws of the dryer and mounting new longer ones through the holding tray. The legs are printed seperatly and slided into place.

1, Print and remove supports. Take extra care scraping and clearing the tracks for the legs interface. Support in the screw holes can be punched out from the sop side afterwards

2, Remove the two visible screws from the bottom of the dryer

3, Fasten the dryer through the tray screw holes from below with 2 pcs #6 x 3/4” metal screws or 4x25mm ones.

4, Tap the legs in place with some mechanical empathy (tight fit intentional)

5, Release AMS cable and existing stock spool holder if mounted

6, Fit the power cable to the filament dryer.

7, Fasten the bracket using the same mouning holes as spool holder but using at least 2 mm longer screws. (I dont recommend to dremmel out material to make stock screws fit. There will be very little material left then and might be a risk over time)

8, Reconnect the AMS cably through the bracket hole

9, Fit a PTFE tube through one of the top holes in the dryer lid and route it to your Y splitter or direct feed to the printer. I preferr using the front facing hole because it provides a smooth bending route to the printer.

My PTFE tube has an outer diameter of 4.23mm and it makes a perfect smooth fit of the tube through the small rubber bushing in the filament hole of the dryer lid. Some qualities of tubes have small OD, about 4 mm. If this is the case one might try 2 turns of tape around the tube where it enters the dryer to increase the tube diamteer or exchange the PTFE tube for a qulaity with better fit.

It is of course possible to add extra stabillity applying thin foamed double sided tape to the interface between the holder bracket and the printer panel. I preferr 3M VHB tapes with any thickness below 1mm. It will be mega strong and if one needs to remove it it wont separate having to scrape clean both sides

Feature releases might get small markings where to put strips.

Thanks to those who downloaded and provided feedback. Glad you liked it!

Comment & Rating (162)

@banasiak

Turned out great! Thanks for sharing!

(Edited)

The designer has replied

@Malkus

Thanks! Cheers

@michaelrbrown

what material did you print this with it looks great?

@banasiak

Replying to @michaelrbrown :

Thanks! This is with eSUN ASA and a 0.6mm nozzle, but it should work with any filament. The trick is to use the technique mentioned in this forum post to give it a "brushed" look. It takes a little longer, but it does look good, doesn't it? https://forum.bambulab.com/t/tip-no-ringing-no-seams-no-visible-layers-homogeneous-color/27731/1 I can upload a print profile if you're interested.

@michaelrbrown

Can we remix this to adapt to the right side? Then it would work with more poop shoots?

The designer has replied

@Malkus

Ill see what fasterers are available to use in that side.

@Malkus

Looks doable. Ill test it in a couple of days

@fdetovar

Replying to @Malkus :

It's just what I wanna ask for. Thanks for the good work. I'll be waiting for that future right version.

@stefanvdw802

fits perfect, printed With abs-x . only thing i did different was melting thread inserts into the holes of the s2 so I can use m3 screws

(Edited)

@HorizonFly_FPV

Tu utilises quelle vis pour fixer le système à la P1S ?

@stefanvdw802

Replying to @HorizonFly_FPV :

i screwed the mount to the p1s with the screws of spool holder

@user_3236493847

Shit, I just went crazy with trying to find the right screws I wish I read these comments first! Thanks bro! Salute.

@JR2503D

Hi! I'm new to 3D printing and only received my X1C yesterday. I spotted this project of yours on the Studio homepage - a must have for me as I own the same S2 unit. I downloaded the STEP file, split it in subparts, and arranged them on the plate the best I could - see pic, try not to laugh. The slicer is warning me about adding supports to cantilevered parts. As this is all new to me, could you drop me a hint on the orientation of the parts and what support settings you used for this? I wouldn't mind seeing the actual project for reference, if possible. Thanks!!

The designer has replied

@Malkus

Cheers mate! You can use the 3mf file instead. Then it it pre arranged and ready to print. Just slice it. You will get a warning but it is of no concern when using the predefined arrangenment, Its a tight fit and one has to consider the support locations in the preview

@JR2503D

Replying to @Malkus :

Doh! I hadn't notice I could download the project file itself lol. Thanks much, and thanks for the awesome project!!

@JR2503D

Replying to @Malkus :

Malkus! I just wanted to drop another THANK YOU in here for a fantastic job at this. I've printed two small snowmen and this part of yours lol. Total noob, yet this thing came out gorgeous and it only cost me $10 on an overnight print. Not only it's beautiful but it's also practical. I was wondering how I would run a 5th reel for TPU and you solved that. FYI, I printed this at 0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill, with eSun PLA+ on a textured PEI plate. Thanks!

@CuhRazy

Came out great! I did have to use #6 x 1" screws for mine.

The designer has replied

@Malkus

Thanks for letting me know! I’ll see if a description update is in place

@CuhRazy

Am I missing something? I have the one with the fan (not sure if there is one without) but the spot to screw into the dryer seems too far away from the actual dryer.

The designer has replied

@CuhRazy

Here are some photos. If you take the original base off what to you do with the fan?

(Edited)

@Malkus

Two silver screws outside the unit at the bottom is to be removed from the dryer. Put longer ones in and mount it to the tray. Should not be a problem with the s2 Sunlu dryer. Fan is in the middle and no conflicting geometries

@CuhRazy

Replying to @Malkus :

just seems like too much gap between the screw hole and the base of the dryer. Almost like you would see the screw between the hole on the print and the dryer.

@roywright2

Great model! Thank you! Here’s a little feedback as not everything was smooth. 😃 * #6 x 3/4” metal screws work to connect the dryer to the stand. * Screw the stand onto the dryer before installing the legs (or have a really long screwdriver) * Plug in the dryer’s power cable before mounting the bracket to the printer. * The channel where the AMS cable connects to the printer ought to be 0.5mm wider. Check before mount the bracket and remember the dremel is your friend. * You may need longer screws to attach the bracket to the printer. I dremelled the holes deeper so the existing bolts could engage. * If you are on a wood desk, round the feet to avoid scratches. Thank you!

The designer has replied

@Malkus

Cheers! I added some mounting instructions and add the info. Thanks for the input. If youd like a model with more rounded feet I cand send you it.

(Edited)

@Omthetortoise

@malkus - This is a fantastic print, I had slacked off on using my S2 since I print mainly from my AMS. I'm starting to branch out into filaments where the moisture content is a huge factor, so I'm extremely happy I found this! I printed with Overture Matte PLA Carbon Fiber, and it came out looking like it was something I purchased, if that makes sense. Absolutely fantastic fit on all the parts, the supports came off with very little effort and no scarring whatsoever. The only thing I noticed that could be tweaked is the clearance for the angled AMS connector plug. The vertical clearance was tight enough it partially scraped off the sticker on the cable. The depth of the cable channel left of the cutout could possibly go maybe 1mm thinner as it felt like the cable had trouble seating securely (even if it was just around the strain relief would likely do it. If there were 10 stars, this would be a 9.9. By far the best way I've seen to handle abrasive filaments I don't want to run through the AMS. The ability to rate this seems to be missing, so I don't have a way to actually rate it

(Edited)

@p666buc

Great idea. I'm only using 1 of the leg supports so i can keep my poop chute.

@SENKuLab3D2Y

The print profile is no longer public

pièce qui ne s'emboîte pas à cause d'un défaut, en rentrant de force la pièce principale c'est cassé, merci d'enlever le profil fast pour éviter que d'autres personnes gaspillent 300g de pla à la poubelle. imprimer avec pla tough jaune sur x1c et coolplate