3D model description
Since I don't like to spend extra for an 8GB GPU, I guess I'll make my own.
Credit goes to Kaydremo for 3D modelling
Credit goes to RaptorOne for Print testing
They are overly engineered to be as realistic as possible. Meanwhile, being FDM printable.
This print will push the limits of FDM material printing, your 3D printer's capability, and your 3D print slicing technique.
This model took four months to develop to the current printable state.
Features:
-1:1 scaled model of an RTX 3070 Ti Founders Edition
-All fins are printed with "push-pull" airflow in mind. The rear fins are 100% pass through.
-PCIe fingers designed to fit in a real PCIe slot (use at your own risk, we are not responsible for damaged motherboards)
-Both fans on this video card spins by hand (skateboard bearings)
-If you do plug in a monitor to this video card, It will display a black screen (sometimes it may even display "no signal detected")
-New PCIe 12 pin power connector is on the card. However, it will not be compatible with the real power connector.
Please keep in mind:
-Due to the fragile nature of the card (especially the fins), please handle it with care.
-I don't have time to create a print instructions manual, you may need some trial and error to get it print right.
This is for personal use only, If you decide to make and sell the prints, please contact me first.
3D printing settings
Cura plugins: Cylindric Custom Support, TabAntiWarping
To print the fans:
Due to the delicate nature of the blades, you need a PEX or PEI print surface such as The Wham Bam Build plate series to make the fan printing possible.
Glass beds: Please print using glue instead of hairspray to keep the fins from warping (initial bed temp60, then 40 afterwards)
To print the fans and fins:
-You need ABL (auto bed levelling) capability of some kind. Otherwise, print failure will consistently occur. I recommend the genuine Antclabs BLTouch.
-You may need to print the fins at 50C on initial layer, and 40C on other layers to prevent warping. (not a concern on Bambu printers)
To print the backplate with the logo:
Your printerβs firmware has to be able to accept a filament change script command if you want to change filament to achieve coloured text. Otherwise, you may need to paint the text within the indents provided.
Supports:
Supports are needed on the Fin_Stack_On_PCB and Main_Silver_Frame
β’ Your printer has to have the longest print bed axis to be capable of printing 275mm long to print everything in one piece.
β’ However, if you decide to print this in a smaller printer, you may print the frame in half. The next largest item is the PCB, and you have the longest bed axis of 185mm to print everything. (you cannot chop this in half)
Bill of materials:
β’ 4x M3 5mm long screws (typical 2.5β SSD screws will suffice) (optionally, you may paint it black) to install the IO plate
β’ 2x 606zz ball bearings for fans
β’ 1x bottle of Gorilla super glue micro precise
β’ Optional 1x bottle of 3-in-one lubrication oil if the ball bearings donβt spin freely.
β’ ~350-400G of filament (must use IIID MAX filaments for Fans and Fins, or else the print isnβt possible). For everything else, you may choose your favourite filament
Tools required:
β’ 1x Heavy Duty Vice: to install the ball bearings into the fan
β’ 2x Quick grip clamps to install the fans into the pegs on the fins or to pressure down other parts during the glue curing process
β’ 1x needle-nose pliers to remove some support pieces
β’ 5-10x binder clips to hold trim pieces in place during the gluing process