Bambu Lab AMS Helper

Bambu Lab AMS Helper

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Print Profile(4)

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X1 Carbon
P1S
P1P
X1
X1E
A1

0.2mm layer, 3 walls, 30% Gyroid infill
0.2mm layer, 3 walls, 30% Gyroid infill
Designer
5.1 h
2 plates
4.2(262)

Arachne Walls / 0.24mm layer / 0.4mm Nozzle, 3 walls, 30% infill
Arachne Walls / 0.24mm layer / 0.4mm Nozzle, 3 walls, 30% infill
5.1 h
2 plates
4.5(16)

Arachne Walls / Gyroid Mesh / 0.28 Layer Height / 0.4mm Nozzle
Arachne Walls / Gyroid Mesh / 0.28 Layer Height / 0.4mm Nozzle
5.1 h
2 plates
4.5(6)

0.6mm nozzle, 0.3mm layer, 2 walls, 14% infill
0.6mm nozzle, 0.3mm layer, 2 walls, 14% infill
3.6 h
2 plates

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Released

Description

This is my second design trying to come up with a solution for the “Jumping Spool” issues.
I shared my first design “AMS SPOOL GUARD”, but after that… I tried to document and learn a bit more to understand why do the spools jumps in the first place.
I shared some slow-mo video on facebook groups and got so many feedbacks (and mockings)
I think understanding the cause would help come up with a better solutions…

I think up to 3 things contributes to the spool jumps
1. When the filaments are low, the angle becomes sharper / steep.. so the extruder makes a more forward pull instead of downward…
2. Extruder speed is faster than the Front Roller, so it was holding it back (plus sharper angle too)
3. Tangled filament

so for Tangled filament, it's probably for someone smarter than me to solve lol
I am attempting to eliminate or at least reduce cause number 1, which is height differences.

First try, I tried to modify the first design, and move the “bar” from the back to the front, using the same mount (which was a nice secure spot mount it)
The problem with that idea I don't have a place for the mount for the left and right side of the AMS…

 

I also tried the suggestion using the AMS Button + a longer PTFE attached
This helped to reduce the wear and tear but it the ptfe tube is so flexible so it will still bend and the spool jumps too. Some one also suggested putting a battery to wedge the spool so it does not wobble, I tried that too (using the same mount as my previous design) with removable “wedges” of various thickness




So instead I looked at the possibility of mounting it on the First Stage Feeder, so I took my spare one and measured the openings…

 

Went through several iterations until I come up with the latest one.
No… it was NOT modelled after the Iron Throne :)

1 issue I found that, the filament will scar the Helper… This is just after 1 print…



 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

So I added a 4x25mm SS rod on top, you can get them on amazon it should sit flush in the cavity provided.

 

and here's the finished project… at least for now…




This is by no means it will fix all… but at least it “should” make the angle less steep… and the filament will go more straight down to the first stage feeder.
I am still studying but at least this is for now one solution that might reduce the issues… I would love you to try and give me feedback…


I included the 3MF for Bambu Studio, comes in 2 plates… if you want to use the metal rod and logo, you can print plate 1, if you don't then you can print Plate 2.

0.3 mm first layer , the rest 0.2 mm Layers - Adaptive Layer
Gyroid infill at 30% to make it stiffer.

Step files are also uploaded if you like to tinker / remix… please do. Any suggestion / comments please hit the reply :)





Thank You!

NOTE: this was designed for the original AMS, I have not tested with Hydra Mods…

 

 

Comment & Rating (378)

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Print Profile
0.2mm layer, 3 walls, 30% Gyroid infill
the Mod IS good, but can not be used with Hydra-Mod for AMS.
The designer has replied
5
Reply
Yes true, I have never tried it with Hydra... sorry!
(Edited)
3
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Replying to @papsjundi :
you should add that into the description. :)
(Edited)
1
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Replying to @LucynaKushinada :
will do, thank you
0
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Like the idea. needs some more fine tuning. some feedback: - too tall to close AMS. - as filament gets low, they start to jump drastically. - filament gets stuck to the side of the bar. here’s some photos.
(Edited)
The designer has replied
4
Reply
Thank you for the feedback… I am travelling abroad for a few months for work… so I haven’t been able to continue… but when I get back.. I will
3
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Replying to @papsjundi :
don’t stress. love the design. I was thinking maybe a slight curve in the top and a wider T shape. kind of guiding the filament onto the rod. it could even lean towards the front and the top be wider then the spool, there is space. I wish i could remix it myself. but I have no where near the amount of skill required to do so :) thanks for contributing to the community. ✌️💛
(Edited)
1
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I printed one out, have not determined how much it helps yet. The problem for me is it's not secure and pulls off the feeder and falls against the spool.
The designer has replied
4
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Oh wait, you're right.... I screw something up on the last version... let me try to fix and reupload, really sorry!
4
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Replying to @papsjundi :
No problem, your design seems to help, but I did some modifying of them myself. They are also too tall, when you close the lid it hits and jams the filament, probably why you were eating a groove into yours. Keep up the good work, you're onto something here.
2
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thanks so much, I am also looking at possibly to better the grab / footing to hopefully be abe to withstand more pressure… as far as the top, it clears mine with bambu spools… but i have some issue with a 3rd party spool that os actually larger diameter compared to stock bambu
2
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remix AMS helper
3
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Print Profile
Arachne Walls / 0.24mm layer / 0.4mm Nozzle, 3 walls, 30% infill
printing was good, but the part did not work on my ams with closed hood.
1
Reply
what if you added the Ams lid riser ?
0
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Replying to @rashawngoodson1 :
looks like it could word. i think i will try it in the future. thx!
(Edited)
0
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Print Profile
0.2mm layer, 3 walls, 30% Gyroid infill
Great idea, this works better than ballasting the spools
The designer has replied
2
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cool thank you!
0
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I printed out 4. I used PTFT tubing for the filament to glide against. Issues: The filament slid off the side of the print almost right away. The lid hits the filament and will quickly leave a mark. Suggestion: Maybe a little shorter with PTFE goal posts to keep the filament from sliding off the side or just a "U" shape for it to glide through. I think PTFE is a great option.
(Edited)
The designer has replied
1
Reply
Thank you for your feedback… I will think about this… first I am not sure if I fan make this wider because of the varyung spool width from different manufacturers.. adding a ptfe “guard” like a goal post… maybe not a bad idea… for at least of that’s worn out we can easily replace.
0
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Replying to @papsjundi :
Thoughts on instead of goal posts, the center could be curved or indented to form a sort of V shape so it forces the filament towards the center to prevent going off the sides?
1
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Print Profile
0.2mm layer, 3 walls, 30% Gyroid infill
Sorry, this was a good idea, however it didn't work for me as two of them dislodged from their mount the first time the filament pulled over them. I have since removed them all so that they couldn't cause any damage to the AMS.
The designer has replied
6
Reply
sorry! they need to be installed on the feeder quite deep / firmly to get a decent grip... so far I have not found a different way to get a good grip for that location... I am still studying it...
(Edited)
5
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I was able to print and get it installed- thanks for sharing your design and thoughfulness! I did run into an issue, however. The Silica Dry Box I printed no longer fit as its too tall and hits against the AMS Helper. Anybody run into this before? I'll have to find one that is lower in height or update the design myself (still learning).
1
Reply
Print Profile
0.2mm layer, 3 walls, 30% Gyroid infill
Print was good and easy straight forward I ended up using 1/8” instrument tubing instead of the 4mm rod since they are about the same size and I had access to it now and Amazon was out of the 4mm at the time I looked.
1
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